A Sunset and Two Truffles

Although the summer of 2024 has seen abundant sunny days here, recently, the past few have been unseasonably rainy and cold. 

Not much fun.

On balance, though, the season has been great, so I’ll not complain. And when today presented itself clear and bright, a bit cold, perhaps best termed “vibrant”, I was not about to argue much. I was about to enjoy.

The early evening was spent on the west deck, with a book and a beer and a dog and a sun going down. 

The dog, Snag is not well, and probably mortally so; his days are most likely numbered. His energy levels are curiously undiminished, and he seems oblivious to what is growing inside him. But the vet has been clear this happy, energetic state is unlikely to persist. Hence the time with him is precious. That time on the deck to share with him was precious.

Despite the adage “Man’s best friend”, there are plenty of things that make dogs inscrutable to humans, and no doubt the inverse. I gave him a scratch under the chin; he liked that. I purred some nice “good dog” words to him, and he liked that as well. 

But for me, the sun was going down in a blaze of glory. The air was clear and very still. There was not a breath of wind. The stream made a very pleasant background singing. The mountains dark in the midground, their profile sharply cutting the sky behind. 

It was beautiful.

But there was no sharing this with Snag. Dogs just don’t do sunsets. They have no sense of awe. 

He laid himself down, crossed one paw over the other, placed his head on top of that pile, and dozed.

This made me feel doubly distant from him: I could see the sunset and he couldn’t; I knew he was ill and he didn’t. 

For a moment it all seemed rather dismal.

But finally the last little bit of sun went down behind the mountains, and as so often happens at precisely that moment, there was a stirring in the air, just the whisper of a breeze, nothing more. It was as if, the day’s work done, the Earth sighed.

Snag was on his feet in an instant, his muzzle — the very dark end of which the French call his “truffle” — pointed towards where the sun had just set, and he sniffed the air.

Two or three times; short inhalations; then a few much longer ones. You could see he was interested in them; you could imagine he was taking pleasure in them.

That was his sunset.

And then I realised how stupid I had been. Why should the dog come to the human, and not the other way around? Why should I expect him to appreciate my view of the sunset, if I could not appreciate his scent of it?

So I raised my truffle as he had, and sniffed the air, as he did. 

Truth be told, I didn’t get much of a scent out of it. Everyone knows that dogs are much more sensitive to smell than humans are. But I did sense, if not a scent, a least the presence of something, the intimation of some perfume, the slightest suggestion of some flower, some mushroom, some pine. It was so indistinct, I almost want to call it a pre-scent. But it was definitely there.

It was something I surely would have missed, had not Snag sniffed, had he not led me to it, had I, through him, not become more attentive to my nose.

It made me wonder: if we are to empathise with friends not of our own species, we might do better to do it in their terms, rather than our own. 

I suppose I had wanted for Snag to see my sunset.

I suppose what happened, in some small way, was that I sniffed his.

It is a very good way to share some time with a dog who is not all that well.

On Language, Dialects and the Unreliability of Leaning Into a Pronunciation

My bike race of 2024 was a departure from years past: I tried a new event, the Engadin Radmarathon. The hosting town is Zernez, which is a 45-minute drive from Saint Moritz, in south-east Switzerland. Zernez’s canton – the rough equivalent of a Canadian province or UK county – is known as Graubünden in German, and Grisons, in French.

Zernez in Winter

But I don’t want to write about biking here. I want to write about language.

Languages and Dialects

Anyone who has visited Switzerland knows that many (most?) of the people are linguistic virtuosos.

There are four official languages in Switzerland. The percentage of Swiss who speak them as a first language are as follows: German (62.3%), French (22.8%), Italian (8.0%) and Romansh (0.5%).

In the case of Romansh, you have to give kudos to a country that officially supports a language spoken by such a small percentage of its people. [All four official languages appear on Swiss banknotes, which the Wangs crew will remember was a source of great mirth. “Dieci Franchi”, however, is Italian, not Romansh.]

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Mushroom Hunting in Paris

Not The Cruellest Month

According to T.S. Eliot, April is the cruellest month. 

Well, he may have been a great poet, but Eliot was a rotten meteorologist. 

A lot of nice things happen in April, at least where I live (France, and hence the northern hemisphere, when April is in the spring), and it has always seemed a very forward, uplifting time to me. 

If I had to nominate the most difficult month – and I still wouldn’t call it cruel – I would have said November. 

Compare the two: My Mom was born in April. Likewise VC, SD, JL, AM and many other of my friends. That is hardly meteorology. But still, so many nice people, what’s not to like? April, and the period surrounding it, is a time for hopeful anticipation, because it provides the transition from cold winter, through spring and into warm summer. 

November is the inversion of all that (although I do know some nice people who were born in November). It is too late for Indian Summer. Any colourful leaves have long since fallen. The clear, vibrant cold days of full-blown winter have not yet arrived. Any precipitation falls only as rain.

Around my house, nothing ever really dries out properly. The bathroom is chilly, the house, in general, difficult to heat. It is the month where the sun struggles most. When streams and rivers are most likely to overflow their banks.

For this and other reasons, I was feeling rebellious this November, and decided to take a quick break in Paris, a city I hadn’t visited in a very long time. 

To begin with, I resolved to remain light-on-my feet and book at short notice when the first period of four to five clear days was forecast. But as the month wore on – that November weather again — it was obvious those good days were unlikely to happen, and in a “to hell with it” moment late one Thursday afternoon, booked the whole thing, transport, hotel, kennel for the dog and all, and at 06:00 on the morning of the next day, was shaking the rain off my shoulders while standing in a train that was just pulling out of the station at Aime. I felt a bit like Bogie, in the train scene from Casablanca, but somehow in reverse. Unlike him, I wasn’t leaving Paris. That train would take me to it. 

And I wasn’t heartbroken.

To Paris. 

To the City of Light.



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On Saving the Planet and the True Calculus of Transportation

In October 2023, I finally took the plunge, and made one of my regular trips to the UK via train rather than plane. It was a first for me.  I wanted to help somehow save the planet.

Initially, it didn’t seem like such a good idea. 

By crude calculations, the train would take more time and be more expensive. A lot more expensive. The cheapest train tickets I could find were three times more costly than flights from Geneva to London. Saving the planet suddenly seemed like a rather costly proposition. And a flight would have me in London very early in the morning. The train could only get me there around midday. So how could I justify the train?

But my friend VC urged me to be logical and look at the door-to-door times, the true costs when you factor in parking, fuel, péage, stress, useful-as-opposed-to-wasted time, and so on. 

Despite her admonitions, it still seemed a losing proposition. But I did it anyway, for the first time in October, from home to London and back via local train and Eurostar. In November I did Paris by TGV.

And it was brilliant.

A planet worth saving?

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Tour des Stations 2023 – An Impressionistic Approach

The Marmotte

On the 5th of August 2023 I did another Marmotte, once again the Tour des Stations, based around Verbier, Switzerland, and was going to write it up.

But my cycling blog entries are all starting to sound alike (if even your friends won’t tell you, you have to tell yourself), so this time around I thought I’d do something different, drop the narrative arc, and just offer some impressions, some vignettes. All scrambled up. So…

A Scary Opportunity

The first descent:

It was cold on that first climb to the Col de Lien, I saw 4ºC on the bike computer. I passed the col and got a kilometre or two of descent under my belt, and for a while felt very alone, before a swarm of hornets passed: the best riders from the second pen had caught me up, and were leaving me behind.

At an intimidating speed.

But I saw the scary opportunity, and latched on to two riders. Their speed was well out of my comfort zone, but being in front, they proffered a kind of x-ray vision of the route ahead: as they disappeared around turns, I could sense from their braking, or lack of same, whether anything was coming up and if there was danger ahead, well before I could see it myself.

Descent to Sion

Perfect for a fast descent

You had to trust, you had to leap, but ohhh, was that leap fantastic.

It was the best cycling descent of my life.

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Réboussolé : Cycling Tour du Mont Blanc 2022

Why – What – Where – When

Why?

When you train many months for a big event, as I did for the Marmotte in July 2022, and then finally do it, although there may be a great sense of achievement — it all depends on how it went — there is inevitably a very flat period afterwards. 

You are what the French call déboussolé: “boussole” is the French word for compass (in the sense of that little magnetic direction-finder, not the pointy, hinged thing-gee you used to stab yourself with accidentally in math and drafting class). You’ve lost your compass, your sense of direction, as the thing you are aiming for is now behind you. There is nothing in front. You’re left with the question,

Compass

Compass – the painless kind

What next?

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Negatives Without Positives

The title of this piece sounds quite a bit more depressing than it actually is. 

I am not talking about situations with no upside, but simply words that are in common use and carry a negative prefix (“negatives”), but where their base – the word without the prefix, or the word with what is normally the opposite prefix (“positives”) – has fallen into disuse. As we shall see, the principle can be applied to suffices as well.

To borrow a term from zoology, the type species for Negatives Without Positives (NWPs) might be uncouth: you certainly can be uncouth, but you can’t be couth.

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It Doesn’t Get Easier, You Just Go Faster (So If It Feels Easier, You’re Not Going Faster)

I will explain the excessively long title towards the end of this piece. For now, straight into the detail.

In November 2021 I signed up for another big bike ride, the Marmotte Grandfondo Alpes. I did it in 2019 with BW and AS, my first-ever such big event. It is 175km with 5,000m of climb, and covers some of the classic Tour de France cols: The Glandon, Télégraphe, Galibier, and finishes with the Alpe d’Huez climb. Race date was 3 July, 2022.

This summer has had some great weather, and the same was predicted for the race weekend. Friday I dropped Mister Snagsby, the dog, off at the kennel and by 06:30 Saturday morning, I was on the road. I took an over-mountain route, traversing the Col de Madeleine and then over the Col du Glandon, which in fact covered part of the route of the Marmotte, albeit in the reverse direction. So I was able to reconnoiter, look for sharp turns and bad road surfaces.

It was only then it occurred to me that I’d missed a trick: if I had bought a can of spray paint on Friday, I could have stopped at strategic points and painted “Go, Brad, Go!” along the route for the next day’s event. Sort of self-encouragement. When you have a fanbase of one, and that one is you, you have to improvise…

The views from the two cols were stunning. From the Madeleine it is actually possible to see the Matterhorn, distant, but unmistakable.

View from the Col de la Madeleine, 2000m

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Fran Varey: Mom’s Life

Mom at 94

My Mom died on 26 August 2021. It fell to me to write the obituary, which, as a task, is at once both an honour and an impossibility. The reason for the former is obvious; the reason for the latter is that no words can capture and condense a person’s life.

Mom’s Life

Mom was born in Toronto and spent all her early life there. As a child, she was particularly close to her father, Ed Sproule, and it would appear it was from him she inherited her great love of walking. One of her earliest childhood memories was of him coming home each Friday, having been paid, and giving her some small coin so that she could go down to the shop and buy the fish and chips for dinner.

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Big Wrathful Drops

Marmotte Grand Fondo Valais 2021

I had spent some time in November 2020, looking for a new cycling event to try in 2021. But with covid, lots of events had been cancelled, and in the end, I settled on the Tour des Stations, the same event I had done the year before. It runs from le Chable, below Verbier in Switzerland, over the Col de Lein to Sion, and after several tough climbs (and treacherous descents), finishes in the Col du Croix above Verbier. 

Or so that was the plan.

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